Encarnaci&243ns Kitchen Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California [Paperback]

In 1991 Ruth Reichl, then aLos Angeles Timesfood writer, observed that much of the style now identified with California cuisine, and withnouvelle cuisine du Mexique,was practiced by Encarnaci?n Pinedo a century earlier. A landmark of American cuisine first published in 1898 asEl cocinero espa?ol (The Spanish Cook), Encarnaci?n's Kitchenis the first cookbook written by a Hispanic in the United States, as well as the first recording of Californio foodMexican cuisine prepared by the Spanish-speaking peoples born in California. Pinedo's cookbook offers a fascinating look into the kitchens of a long-ago culture that continues to exert its influence today.

Of some three hundred of Pinedo's recipes included herea mixture of Basque, Spanish, and Mexicanmany are variations on traditional dishes, such as chilaquiles, chiles rellenos, and salsa (for which the cook provides fifteen versions). Whether describing how to prepare cod or ham and eggs (a typical Anglo dish labeled huevos hip?critas ), Pinedo was imparting invaluable lessons in culinary history and Latino culture along with her piquant directions. In addition to his lively, clear translation, Dan Strehl offers a remarkable view of Pinedo's family history and of the material and literary culture of early California cooking. Prize-winning journalist Victor Valle puts Pinedo's work into the context of Hispanic women'stestimoniosof the nineteenth century, explaining how the book is a deliberate act of cultural transmission from a traditionally voiceless group.

Dan Strehl,Manager of the Frances Howard Goldwyn Hollywood Regional Branch of the Los Angeles Public Library, is the author ofThe Spanish Cook (1992) andOne Hundred Books on California Food and Wine(1990).Victor Valleis Director of the American Communities Program at Cal State
Univerisity Los Angeles, Professor of Ethnic Studies at California Polytechnic
State UnivelÅ